A good lace-front wig is a must for anyone who likes to play with different looks but doesn’t necessarily want to put their actual hair through all that styling. You can rock a mint-green lob one day and platinum-blonde locs the next, (à la Blac Chyna), and still keep the hair growing from your head intact and unbothered — as long as you’re careful not to put too much stress on your edges.
But you can’t be out here rocking any old lace-front. No, ma’am, you need to get your hands one so good, that even your scalp won’t believe that hair didn’t actually grow from your head. That’s why when I stumbled across this viral frontal wig on Twitter, styled by Porshca Weeks, aka (@StylezofPorscha), I had to take my jaw off the floor. That blend? Absolutely flawless — and it has us asking, seriously, “what lace-front?”
Of course, I had to find out how she managed to create such a natural-looking piece. “It starts with the mind. Creating the illusion is all about craft,” The Philadephia-based hairstylist tells Allure. “If you can channel your mind, look at someone’s hairline, and say, ‘I want it to look exactly like that,’ that’s how my brain works when I actually do the lace-front. It’s a science.”
While the wig that Porscha installed was created by a manufacturer, it was her skill set and precision that took it to the next level. “I tell people to go and get the wigs and bring them to me. When I get them, I bring them to life. Before I get my hands on the wig, it doesn’t look like that,” she explains. Since going viral, Porscha has received inquiries about how to purchase that exact piece. “I don’t sell wigs. But if I did, you still couldn’t get them like that because I would have to create the look for it,” she dishes.
Porscha’s wig installation process is completely custom and tailored to her clients. She starts off by bleaching the knots of the wig from the side of the cap. Wig knots are the clusters of hair that go into the holes of the wig, which help achieve the natural look of a real scalp. Bleaching the knots to match the client’s complexion also helps with giving that natural look, Porscha explained. After she bleaches the knots, she lets the wig sit.
Then, she starts the plucking process, which happens in stages. “Once the wig is on a person’s head, it’s a different story. I take my time. It used to take me about four hours to do one, now it takes about an hour and a half. I have four different tweezers that I use, with all different tips and sizes,” she says. Her secret to a good lace-front wig is all about the hairline and surprisingly, keeping your real hair completely covered: “Once that stocking goes on and I cut around the edges, there’s no hair out.” She then meticulously crafts the baby hairs in a swooping pattern, again creating the illusion of real edges.
Porscha’s main advice to a perfect blend is to be strategic and precise. “People think that it’s the standard bleaching and plucking of the knots that make a good wig. If you’re just thinking about [the] wig looking real, that’s where you [go] wrong,” she explains. “The key to making the wig look real is actually having the person’s hairline in mind. It’s all about the perimeter. It’s all about sizing it up. The objective is to literally clone the person’s scalp and skin. If you don’t clone that person, or you don’t try to, that’s where you [go] wrong.”
Porscha is currently on a worldwide tour where she teaches hairstylists how to create perfect their lace-fronts. “If you think taking this class for one day is going to make you great, you are sadly mistaken,” she says. “You have to go home and practice every single day because that’s how you improve.”
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